Howden Edge
I would contest that Howden Edge is not much of an edge at all. Its got height and grandeur and there's a great walk or two to be had, but its got very little exposed gritstone compared to the rest of the gritstone edges. There's a few bits scatterred about, almost as though they were sprinkled around to give the slopes a bit more character. I can imagine Slartibartfast (from the Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy by the late Douglas Adams) having a wry chuckle as he peppers the hillsides with what are to him just pebbles! Howden Edge towers above the end of the Upper Derwent Valley reservoirs and sets the scene for the start of this journey along the Derbyshire gritstone crags.
(2008-4520) Howden Edge
It is difficult to see Howden Edge from the valley floor as the view is interrupted by other formations, notably Long Edge that runs below Howden Edge towards the top of the valley.
Views
A view I have seen but not yet managed to photograph is of the RAF flying low down the valley and along the reservoirs. Unfortunately I was not there to see the flight on May 16th 2008 of the last remaining Lancaster bomber in the UK - commemorating the 65th Anniversary of the World War II Dambusters mission, but other aircraft are often seen. I have not tried to find details of precise timings (and I would imagine that they are not published anyway!) but the amount of warning you get to prepare with a camera is negligible; a few seconds of engine noise and wondering what on earth the noise is, followed by a few seconds more as the plane flies past! On one occasion I was standing below Derwent Dam, heard the engine noise and thought I was prepared only to find I hadn't taken the lens cap off the camera at the crucial moment. Another photograph that got away!
The path that runs along Howden Edge provides wonderful views of the surrounding moorland. These can be a bit dreary in winter but from late spring the colours in the heather and moorland start to create some contrast. Evening light is of course best for photographs but this takes some committment given the time it takes to get back down. It is vital to be very prepared if staying out late. There are no street lamps along the valley and it would be best to time a visit to coincide with a full moon and relatively clear skies; that takes a crystal ball to work out! Winter is another time perfect for photographs as the height of the moors means there is usually snow for longer than might be found in the valley floor.
It is often hazy and that can make distant views rather dull, but early morning can deliver fine views especially if there has been a mist in the valley.
Access and Walking
Howden Edge is not easy to get to compared with the other edges. There’s a fair walk up quite a slope to get to it from almost any direction. One option is to use the old trail from Langsett – the Cut Gate path. This trail was originally used to link the Derwent Valley with the market at Penistone. This trail is now a bridleway and often used by mountain bikers. It is very tedious on foot as it passes for miles through peat that is worn away through many years use and erosion. If you enjoy tramping through such terrain, then fine, but personally I prefer to see a view when walking!
A much better option is to approach Howden Edge from the Upper Derwent Valley, and again there are options. The first is to park the car at Fairholmes Visitor Centre (or along the road nearby) and walk past Derwent Reservoir and along the track all the way to the very end of Howden Reservoir. This is a fine walk and a great way to enjoy the area. It is very likely that you will see raptors (Peregrines or Red Kites are likely) circling above the crags of Long Edge above although sadly, as the RSPB reports, the Peak District is one of the worst areas in the country for illegal killing of now very rare birds.
You cannot actually see Howden Edge from this path for it sits behind Long Edge that towers above the path at this point.
(2008-4454) Cold Side, Long Edge on the right
(2008-4468) Long Edge from Cold Side
The second option to access the path that soon leads up to Howden Edge is to drive up the road on the west side of the Derwent Valley reservoirs to the King’s Tree parking area. This road is only open to cars during the week, but at weekends a bus service runs. From the end of this road walk straight up to the end of Howden Reservoir and over the packhorse bridge at Slippery Stones. This then joins the path that runs alongside Long Edge.
(2008-4477) Cranberry Clough
The bridleway continues a little further up the valley until it swings to the right and leads up the delightful Cranberry Clough. This gets quite steep but climbs quickly to open out onto a stone pavement at Cranberry Ness. The views from this path as it climbs are worth checking and there is a great view to several stone outcrops up above. The most notable is Bull Stones above Bull Clough. Once the path opens out there is a marvellous and almost panoramic view to be had of Howden Moor and Howden Edge. The path continues up and over the top. If you follow it you will end up walking through the peat until you end up at Langsett as above. Better to walk to the right when the path tops out and locate the path that runs along the ridge. This first reaches the 546m summit of Margery Hill and its stones which is now known to be a Bronze Age burial site (and now in the care of English Heritage). Then the path gently climbs the ridge and is easily followed until the summit is reached. The views over the moors are simply sublime and make the walk worth every aching muscle. To the west the views are fine if you like large expanses of open moorland, but you are very likely to see moorland birds such as Curlew, Grouse and Golden Plover. There are also large swathes of cotton grass over the moors.
(2008-4498) Cranberry Ness
(2008-4528) Cotton Grass
(2008-4539) From Howden Edge looking north to Margery Hill
The path continues down past High Stones and then follows a very obvious path down to Nether Hey and Howden Clough. You are then once again on the path that runs alongside the reservoirs and you should either retrace steps back to the bridge at Slippery Stones or Fairholmes Visitor Centre.
(2008-4586) Nether Hay
Another option, of course, is to continue from Howden Edge and walk without loosing all the height gained across to Derwent Edge and beyond. This requires following the contours around the end of Howden Edge and Howden Clough to get to Howshaw Tor and Lost Lad; this is however part of Derwent Edge.
Maps and Guides
Ordnance Survey Explorer Map OL1 - The Peak District Dark Peak Area