Derwent Edge
It is difficult and even unfair to select favourites, but the walk along Derwent Edge is truly wonderful. It's a good long walk and high enough that you can feel the air and space around you. Stanage Edge is my personal favourite, but Derwent Edge has a completely different character to it. It is higher, and consequently a little more desolate. It is a little quieter as it takes a bit more effort to get there, and there is simply no comparison to Stanage for climbing. Derwent Edge is not as easy to get to and takes somewhat longer to walk up; it is not a quick late afternoon or evening stop-off for a quick walk or climb after walk; it's a bit more serious than that.
Much of the High Peak area is now designated Open Access Land. This means that footpaths do not have to be adhered to. But with such access comes a responsibility to look after the area so appropriate care should always be taken when exploring the area. The National Trust is putting a huge investment into managing the area - footpaths, walls, buildings and moorland but they need our help to maintain the environment so please treat it with respect. I do not need to repeat basic countryside rules.
It is worth remembering that paths across the High Peak have been here for centuries as packhorse trails taking lead and wool across the hills to cities such as Manchester and Sheffield. Just what would it have been like to hike across these moorlands with primitive mountain and weather proofing gear?
(2006-3488) White Tor (left) and Whitestone Lee Tor from road adjacent to Ladybower Reservoir.
Taken at dusk, March 2006.
(2007-1000644) Ladybower Reservoir overflow, Ashopton and Derwent Edge beyond. May 2007.
The reservoirs here were constructed in two phases. The first, from 1901 to 1917 saw the Howden and Derwent Dams completed. It was here during World War II that the 617 Squadron, led by Wing Commander Guy Gibson, practiced their raids that would lead to the destructive raid on the German Ruhr valley dams in May 1943. It is still sometimes possible to see preserved Lancaster bombers flying down the Derwent Valley, quite an awesome sight and sound.
The third reservoir, Ladybower, was built from 1935 to 1945. It is the latter that meant that the villages of Derwent and Ashopton were flooded although some of the remains of both can occasionally be seen when the reservoir level is particularly low.
Views
The views from Derwent Edge are simply fantastic; the panoramic views across a large swathe of the Peak District are a joy and the views extend across several distant counties. Make sure you take some binoculars with you! The rock formations that can be seen along the Edge are worthy of much exploration; they are at their best sprinkled with snow but as noted above this makes the area a little more inaccessible and a challenge to get to. Over the last few years the amount of snow has been relatively light and there are very few days of the year when snow covers the area, even the very highest ground. But when there is snow it is worth every bit of effort to get there and it takes on the appearance of another world.
The upper Derwent Valley is superb for wildlife - Merlins and Ring Ouzels can occasionally be seen but many other birds are regularly seen including Red Grouse, Golden Plover and Curlews. The mountain hare can also often be seen, easily identified in its white winter coat. Just shows how the environment has changed - evolution has changed the hare's coat to white against what were once very harsh and largely white winters. It is now easy to spot the hare against the browns and greys of the mountains.
(2007-1002050) View looking north to Kinder from Back Tor. July 2007.
It is equally important to look behind you as where you are going when walking along Derwent Edge. The views are impressive from almost any direction all the way along and it is well worth while walking the opposite route to experience the views in reverse. As with any of these edges, the best light is in the evening as the sun starts to decend and light up the edges with a warm evening light. Whenever possible it is also worth waiting to see the afterglow and later to experience the moors in the dark. There's an unsightly orange glow from the lights of Sheffield, star light and on the right evening plenty of moonlight to walk back down. Magical, but do take a good torch! Whilst I personally enjoy sunrise as a time of day and mood, this does leave the edges in shadow - so it's better as a time of day than a lighting spectacular.
(2007-1002077) Ladybower Reservoir, The Great Ridge and Kinder from Derwent Edge. July 2007.
There are good views of Derwent Edge from the valley below or from several of the other peaks nearby such as Crook Hill, Winhill Pike or Lose Hill.
Access and Walking
As noted above, most of the High Peak area is now Open Access Land which means it is free and open to explore and walk across. Given the nature of the area this brings great responsibility to treat the area with respect. It remains fragile and easily disturbed. The National Trust has spent huge efforts in making the area accessible and have restored footpaths (or paved them with large flagstones) and tracks that should be used to both ensure the area is preserved aswell as making it easier to navigate. Unless you absolutely have to, please use the marked footpaths across the Peak. It is also occasionally necessary to close off large areas - very dry conditions can make the risk of fire acute. Not every entrance or stile makes this clear, so please pay attention to notices and follow their guidance.
This area is beautiful but can also be temperamental. Weather can change quickly so please always bring suitable walking boots (not trainers), waterproofs, maps and compass (and the knowledge to use them). Mobile phones have scant coverage so should not be considered an emergency option. It is irresponsible to visit and walk across this area without appropriate equipment. However, I have had a very sweaty back beneath my rucksack on more than one occasion by carrying equipment that is not needed - but I would always prefer being safe. Clearly I need a new rucksack too!
To walk along Derwent Edge means an uphill start. This is not a difficult ascent but is no sunday stroll. The car park at Fairholmes at the north end of Ladybower Reservoir is the best place to start, and there's plenty of extra parking along the road if the pay and display car park is full. Walk long the eastern side of Derwent Reservoir until shortly before Howden Dam to follow the footpath up Abbey Brook - it's worth walking to Howden Dam to view and then back the short distance, especially if there's been a lot of recent rain. This footpath is quite clear as it turns away from the path alongside the reservoir and starts off quite gently. A gentle start but gets steeper until you top out over Nether Hay. The views north to Howden Moor, Howden Edge and Outer Edge are magnificent, but worth stopping for a breather to look back west and south over the High Peak Estate and the Derwent reservoirs.
(2007-1002006) Howden Moors and Edge from Little Howden Moor. July 2007.
The paths over the moors are quite clear once you get to the top, and I thoroughly recommend following them. It's easy now! Not completely flat by any means and the uphill bits are easily compensated by the downhill bits! Be sure however to enjoy the views and the weathered rock formations along the Edge.
(2007-1002026) The flagged path to Lost Lad. July 2007.
(2007-1002038) Back Tor. July 2007.
The path now turns back south to follow the path to Lost Lad, then to Back Tor. I thoroughly recommend stopping for a quick break at Back Tor to have a break, a drink or even picnic whilst looking at the rocks. Then the path continues along Derwent Edge past the Cakes of Bread stones, Dovestone and to the quite remarkable Salt Cellar. Next is White Tor and then Wheel Stones, a fascinating formation of very weathered gritstone.
(2007-1002061) From Dovestones Tor to Back Tor. July 2007.
(2007-1002101) Salt Cellar. July 2007.
(2007-1002114) Wheel Stones. July 2007.
The footpath follows south towards the summit of Derwent Moor, an area marked, if that is the right word, by a small flat area of moon-like appearance. A signpost points out the current alternatives: to Moscar and subsequently Stanage Edge if following the end-to-end walk, but for now a route down towards Grindle Clough and what remains of Derwent village and back to Fairholmes car park (and a cup of tea!) or a more southerly route to Ashopton and the car parking adjacent to Ladybower Reservoir.
Maps and Guides
Ordnance Survey Explorer Map OL1 - The Peak District Dark Peak Area